Jenny Ling 14 Jan, 2013
Mount Everest has captivated
intrepid men and women since the 1920s. The exploits of legends such as George
Mallory, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay put the mighty mountain on the
map; thousands have followed, making huge sacrifices – many with their lives –
in their own attempts to the summit.
But today, the trek to Everest Base
Camp has become an achievable goal for people from all walks of life who want a
glimpse of the world’s highest peak. In 2012, between 35,000 and 37,000 people
trekked in the Everest region.
Aside from breathtaking scenery,
travellers to the region can experience unique Sherpa culture by visiting monasteries
and museums along the way. Days are filled with walking for the sheer pleasure
of it, past colourful prayer wheels and across swing bridges straight out of an
Indiana Jones movie, while evenings are rewarded with hot food and conversation
with like-minded people around the dining-room fire.
The heady mix of natural beauty,
fascinating culture and a personal sense of achievement, as well as warm
Nepalese hospitality, makes the Everest Base Camp trek one of the world’s most
unforgettable.
When
should I make the trek?
From March to May and from September
to December. It gets hot in May, just before the monsoon season; be prepared
for possible rain. December reaches below-zero temperatures but the days are
still beautiful and there are fewer trekkers (but remember to wrap up warm
in the evenings).
Do
I need a guide?
The Nepal government is considering
making the hiring of a guide compulsory this season, after the disappearances
of some lone trekkers and the death of a Belgian trekker in the Langtang region
in June 2012.
But the solo trekking ban has been
put on hold, so for now it’s still possible to go it alone. But hiring a guide
or porter has many advantages: for US$10 to $20 a day you’re giving someone a
valuable job and in turn you will learn plenty about the local culture and
natural environment.
A trekking company offers the
advantage of having everything arranged for you, including airport transfers,
accommodation and porters and/or guides and their insurance. You can book
before you go with western tour companies, though you’ll pay significantly less
by booking in Kathmandu – ensure they’re registered with the Trekking Agencies
Association of Nepal (TAAN). For a list of registered companies visit TAAN
How
do I get in shape?
Nothing can really prepare you for
the trek’s extreme hills and altitude of up to 5545m. But don’t be put
off – people with average fitness can do this trek. ‘Slow and steady’ is the
key to achieving, and enjoying, your trek.
Prepare with cardiovascular training
several times a week: cycling, swimming, hill climbing and lots of walking. Aim
for a five-hour walk once a week. Seek out hills or find a tall building and
repeatedly walk up and down the stairs.
What
should I take?
Pack lightly – aim for 10 to
15kg. Consider your porter’s load before you include that big bottle of shampoo
or pair of jeans.
A fleece jacket, down jacket and
thermal underwear are a must, as the Himalaya gets cold above 3000m any time of
the year. Also take two pairs of long pants, two or three T-shirts (synthetic
fabrics – not cotton – that wick away sweat), and another warm jumper or
light fleece.
Footwear requires lightly broken-in
boots, trekking socks, and sneakers or sandals for evenings. You will also need
a raincoat, gloves, woollen hat, sunhat and polarised sunglasses. A good
sleeping bag (rated to -20°C/0°F) is essential; if it’s winter, a thermal liner
makes it extra toasty.
Opt for travel-size toiletries,
including a good sunscreen, lip balm, travel towel and tissues. Baby wipes are
handy for days when you can’t shower.
Your first aid kit should include
medication for diarrhoea, antibiotics for a chest or sinus infection, and
adhesive bandages for blisters. Visit your doctor for Nepal-specific
immunisations. Using two 1L water bottles with water purification tablets is a
reliable and safe way to drink water – and more environmentally friendly
than buying bottled water from lodges
Staying
healthy and safe on the trek
Take
your time.
Altitude sickness can affect anybody
– even the extremely fit. (The acclimatisation days, usually at Namche and
Dingboche, are set for a reason.) Watch for signs of altitude sickness:
symptoms include headaches, dizziness, sleeplessness, loss of appetite and
breathlessness. Bring a supply of the medication Diamox for treatment; if
symptoms persist, descend.
Be
vegetarian.
As tempting as it is to try a juicy
yak steak or ‘buff burger’, be aware that all meat is carried up by porters
from below Lukla due to the no-killing policy in Sagamartha National Park, so
by the time you have it, it’s getting old. The safest, healthiest option is to
eat dal bhat (lentil soup with rice) – it’s made fresh daily and is a
great source of protein and energy. As the saying goes, ‘Dal Bhat Power,
24 Hour!’
Cover
up.
The sun here is harsh, so use a good
sunscreen and reapply regularly. Wear long-sleeved tops, long pants and a light
scarf – or be prepared to blister.